Part 1) Blancos:
I got to try quite a few new tequilas in 2011. A few of them were genuinely new offerings on the market, most were simply new to me. And of course there were some old favorites. In many cases I had so go to some pretty significant lengths to get these tequilas.
El Maestro de Tequila: Germán Gonzales with T1
Let's lay them out by expression, shall we?
BLANCOS:
The best blanco I got to try (again) this year was T1 Blanco Ultra Fino by Germán Gonzales. It's silky smooth with a great mouth feel, and bears the full essence of big agave. If it isn't the holy grail of blancos, T1 U.F. is close to it. Five Pencas!
Right behind that came Arette Blanco Suave, an oldie but one I've been wanting to try for years. Finally scored a bottle and was lucky to get one of the last of the now-discontinued "hewn" bottles with the paper label. Arette is bold rich and complex, with a great balance of earth, agave and sweetness. Not bad for a lowland tequila! I'll be sad when this one's gone, and it's gettin' frighteningly low. Four Pencas!
In November I was pleasantly surprised by a new kid on the block, Peligroso Silver tequila. As I said in my review, I was not expecting greatness, and wow, these guys got it right. It's a bang zoom of a Highland blanco. Can't wait to try the the aged expressions. 3.8 Pencas!
One of the new blancos that did not get a high grade from me in 2011 was Avión Silver, as seen on TV's Entourage.It's flavor-profile has been de-agave-ized, and generally designed for hipsters who might also like Grey Goose Vodka. What can be said is that it's hot and peppery, but other than that has not much going for it. Like the TV show it was featured on, or maybe like Hollywood itself, Avión is all surface, with no soul. At $39 it's too expensive to use in a margarita, so why bother? Two Pencas!
Speaking of mixers, one of tequila's old highland families, The Camarenas, introduced a down-priced 100% agave line bearing their own name. The blanco, for $21.00 is not a sipper (although a couple of my Patrón-loving young friends like shooting it straight), but it makes a dandy mixer, with enough Highland sweetness flavor to stand up pretty nicely in a 'rita or other cocktail. It's pretty harmless. 2.5 Pencas!
I also enjoyed many of my old favorite blancos in 2011; among them were El Tesoro, Partida, 7 Leguas, Milagro (now in many local bars) and Don Julio, which I always disliked in the past. I gave it one last chance, thanks to a free gift bottle from a friend, and this time it stuck.
www.ranchotequila.net
A Tequila Blog by Drew "Pale Rider" Townson
"There's nothing better than good tequila, and there's nothing worse than bad tequila," Drew Townson
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Muy Peligroso!
Didn't want to like you, but despite the hype, I DO! I do like you, you dangerous sunnofabitch!
I have a problem with overly-hyped tequilas that are owned by American rock-stars or businessmen who usually sell hair products or trade bonds on Wall Street. Yes, I'm talking about YOU Cabo, and especially YOU, Patrón!
I recently tried "Avión Silver," the tequila made popular on the TV show Entourage. It was pretty much what I expected; triple distilled, overly smoothed, and with that harmless flavor profile designed for people who wouldn't know a real Weber blue agave if it chased them around the yard. What's the difference between Avión and some fashionable Vodka-du-jour being posed-with by a Miami Supermodel? Nothing, that's what! It's all marketing hype. Meanwhile, the actual substance inside - the JUICE - is average at best.
With all of these prejudices in mind, today I walked in to the neighborhood BevMo store here in San Jose (where I am hanging for a few days) and proceded to hover around the well-appointed and very reasonably-priced tequila shelf. Just as I was deciding whether to get the new Don Julio 70 Joven tequila, or perhaps a bottle of Tonalá reposado, a couple of the store employees took notice of me and came over. They immediately started pitching me on this new tequila, which just coincidentally was on-sale, called "Peligroso." I know retail pretty well, and I know tequila better than both of the people at the store, and what I gathered was they were trying to "push" this new brand. They didn't know whether it was highlqands or lowlands and they kept saying something about citrus and spice and white pepper. It sounded a lot like a not-too-well-memorized "schpeel." BUT, since it was on sale for $30-something bucks and I always say everything starts with a good blanco, I bought a bottle of the blanco - sorry, I mean "Silver" - on their totally trustworthy recommendation. As I checked out, I actually said to the check-out guy, "This better be worth the hype, because I know a good blanco when I taste it."
I really did say that.
Upon returning to the bungalow I Googled "Peligroso" and found all the signs of the things I am wary of: A couple young American kids start up a tequila company in SoCal. It's rad. It's rock 'n' roll. It's surfing. It's naked girls. It's tatoos. It's party-time all-the-time, baby. It's tequila for kids with money to burn, dude! Peligroso-dangeroso tequila baby, woo-hoo! And it's a 42% alcohol/84-proof liquor, so hey, let's get wasted!
So I'm thinking, "Really? Here we go again. Give me a break. It's all about marketing and a slick web-site."
Logo, or Tramp-Stamp Tattoo?
At any rate, I wasn't going to wait one more minute to try the stuff. And as a serious tequila aficionado, I had low, low expectations.
Well, ba-low me down! It's GOOD! This Peligroso juice is good blanco. I think they got it right! They clearly went in to this knowing something about real tequila, or at least with a good pallette, and with the right attitude. Right off the bat I'll say it's a little sweet even for a highlands lover like me, but she's a spunky little blanco, with a touch of the spicy kick we like. Mostly, it's loaded, and I mean loaded with agave goodness. This tequila has flavor to spare. It tastes like someone squeezed agave nectar in to the bottle. There's a nice soft entry of caramelized agave, followed by a zesty mid-palette of hot ginger and sugar-cane, and ending with a very slight bite and alcohol burn. It's not as-if a thousand exotic chili-peppers just danced on my tongue, and there's no 'earthyness" to speak of either. I also did not get much in the way of citrus - maybe orange - even though other reviews mention it. But thank God they didn't try to remove the heart and soul of tequila like some of these other worthless posers. In other words, agave is NOT the secret ingredient in this tequila.
THEY GOT IT RIGHT! Agave is NOT the secret ingredient!
And yes, Peligroso DOES happen to be highland agave - my favorite. NOM 1107 is Tequila de Viejito, and although I've never had any of their other brands, their location is certainly good in my book. I'd say this to anyone serious enough about getting in to real tequila: If you don't like this, you don't like tequila, period. Run the other way and drink a Bombay Sapphire with Stevie Nicks. Peligroso COULD BE the real deal. I didn't taste a lot of this "white pepper" I'd been told about - but what do I know? What the hell does white-pepper taste like anyway? I certainly did get some sweet spice, like ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon, along with honey. There's a "pop" in there, to be sure. As we all know, these are the marquee flavors of the famous Los Altos piña. It's the agave we call "Highlands". And with a high alcohol content, to-boot, the burn is tolerable, even sublime. Kind of astonishing.
This blanco goes down TOO easy.
They have a ways to go to be the next Siete Leguas, but Peligroso has made a tremendous rookie effort, certainly for their blanco. I mean, "silver."
And all this is coming from a blanco lover. As I always do, I say a good blanco bodes well for the rest of the line. Speaking of which, if I am reading the lit correctly, in the making of the reposado, Peligroso uses new American oak - not cured by bourbon. I have never been a fan of bourbon-barrel flavoring in tequila or scotch (because, well, I don't like bourbon), but I'm a BIG fan of virgin oak. So if this is the case, bring on the repo!
Would need free samples, though....... :-) Hint. Hello Peligroso....
Great bottle, too! Really artful bottle designs on the three expressions.
GO DANGEROUS, OR GO HOME!
Peligroso Tequila on Facebook
Tequila Whisperer show reviews Peligroso.
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Dos de Los Altos: 7 Leguas & Siembra Azul...
Highland Girl: Up here we like our tequilas like we like our women - full-bodied!
Last night I had a chance to do a taste-comparison between two outstanding highland reposado tequilas: 7 Leguas, and Siembra Azul.
In a previous review, I had commented that Siembra was very smooth and soft, maybe overly so. But on this occasion, maybe because the SA bottle has been open and there has been a period of decanting, I detected more nuts and spice - sort of an unexpected nutmeggy or cinnamon thing. There was a fuller flavor-profile, and I liked it even better than before (and still found it to be as smooth as a baby's bottom).
The venerable incumbent 7 Leguas is known for it's big bold taste, led by the hearty presence of highland agave. The 7L bursts with tones of sweetness, spice and wood, with a very slightly less refined taste than the SA. There's a bit more alcohol bite and a little more edge in-general, none of which gets in the way of 7L's famous agave bloom.
In fact, both of these offerings have the "corazon y alma" of the Los Altos agave taste. When you open the present, that is what's inside both of these superb tequilas. Only the "wrapping paper" is slightly different between the two. But that's the 3% that we pay the biggest money for, isn't it? It's that sublime 'enth degree of quality and subtlety that aficionados will revel in.
Some tequila people will say that the 7L wins because it's got more spunk, that you can "taste the tahona," and believe me, that's why it's an every day repo for me, being my top three or four. Also, it's a lot easier than Siembra Azul to find, let's mention.
But I gotta tell ya, what the lovely Siembra Azul revealed to me last night was more of her plumpness. She's more Rubenesque than I thought. And I found her quite sexy, indeed.
The verdict is that these are both superb tequilas, and one cannot go wrong with either. So...get both! Like they always say, "Variety is the spice of life!"
7 Leguas Review on Tequila.net
Siembra Azul review on Tequila.net
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Happy Day of the Dead!
Dia de los Muertos is here again! What tequila will you drink to celebrate the old Mexican festival?
Our cinnamon-haired spokes-model - I'll call her Carmen - is holding a skull full of KAH, which calls itself "Day of the Dead" tequila. So, sure, I'll enjoy a shot of KAH añejo. It's not my favorite, but it has a grassy, woody thing happening. However, looking over my "colleción," I see some other nice choices. I'm thinking a cold-shot of Arette blanco, followed by a nice sipper of 7 Leguas reposado.
I'll also listen to some music - probably The Dead...
Saludos!
Monday, October 17, 2011
Siembra Azul: The Blue Harvest
Harvest Blue: The Plain-Jane bottle holds SWEET nectar inside.
I managed to acquire - with great difficulty - a bottle of Siembra Azul reposado. It's a delightful highlands tequila from NOM 1414. This juice is truly like liquid silk - buttery, with caramel, vanilla, wood, and maybe I detect a hint of maple syrup in there. It's sweet and light with a well-balanced presence of that delicious highland agave.
The only down-side is that it's maybe too smoothed out for some people. It's not earthy, smoky or spicy at all. Not much of a zing to it. But I do like it as a sipper, and I think tequila newbies would find it extremely palatable. The flavor-profile has really been designed to have no rough edges. There's really nothing NOT to like about Siembra Azul. I look forward to trying the blanco at some point.
One note about the bottle: People say beware fancy bottles, and I know we pay extra for that, but I really DO love the fancy tequila bottles. Siembra made the decision to go with a standard (cheap) commercial bottle and a really generic label design. That's a departure from other boutique tequila brands, and I don't know whether it helps or hurts....
Review by tequila.net
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Muy Muy Suave!
I was lucky to score the now-discontinued "vintage" style bottle w/ paper-label and cork. I may not see one of these again.
As we all know, I love good blancos, and am on a never-ending (it seems) quest for the ultimate blanco. I had always been curious about Arette, especially the Artesanal Blanco Suave. Had heard and read good things. Well, until now I had never gotten my hands on any. So I recently scored a bottle, sort of by accident, and zowie, it IS good. Really, really good. It's big on agave, smooth, and has nice layers of flavors. It's good chilled, and it's one of the few blancos I would really hesitate to waste in a margarita. And I use Partida blanco in margaritas. So, now when I talk about my fave blancos, Arette Suave will be in the conversation with 7 Leguas, Partida, El Tesoro, Tequila Uno and Espolón.
Sunday, August 21, 2011
La Casa de Santana
I've always been a huge fan of Carlos Santana. And of course I love good tequila. So how lucky am I that two of my favorite things have come together? Yes! Santana has become the official spokes-guitarGod for Tequila Casa Noble. Now, Noble is not my favorite tequila, and the main reason for my apathy is that CN is triple-distilled. I prefer double-distilled tequila. So, if I were advising Santana on which tequila to endorse, I would have gone a different way. On the other side of it, I can think of no better artist to represent a top-shelf tequila than Maestro Santana.
SOUL de agave: Enjoy this video in which the legend Himself expresses his spiritual connection with Mexico, while celebrating music and life with Casa Noble
Now if Guillermo Sauza could promote Fortaleza by recruiting say, um, Shakira!
SOUL de agave: Enjoy this video in which the legend Himself expresses his spiritual connection with Mexico, while celebrating music and life with Casa Noble
Now if Guillermo Sauza could promote Fortaleza by recruiting say, um, Shakira!
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Yo Papagayo!
Ample Parking: Agave Lovers Line Papagayo Boston's Big Tequila Bar...
Having lived in both Texas and New Mexico, and also being a 20-year tequila aficionado, I have been waiting a long time for this type of place to come to Boston. And the good news is, it's here! Temazcal? No! Papagayo on Summer Street (near Fort Point Channel) has fantastic food, a great atmosphere, friendly staff, and the tequila? Well, 175 bottles and the most agave-knowledgeable barman I have ever had the pleasure to meet. Service overall was excellent. Papagayo has the guacamole cart that rolls up and makes it fresh at your table and it's to DIE for. Prices are not dirt-cheap but you get a really nice experience for the buck. Sampled a few tequilas for the first time: Maestro Dobel Joven tequila, El Tesoro Paradiso, Frida Kahlo blanco, and the exquisite Partida Elegante. Try the Tacos al-Pastor, and a fresh, handmade margarita made with Espolón Blanco. Kudos to the bright, agave-elevated atmosphere and delicious food of Papagayo!
Tuesday, August 2, 2011
Inbound Tequilas! Coming Soon!
Acquiring some fresh bottles of highlands juice: Chamucos Reposado, Siembra Azul Repo, and Arette blanco suave.
So I look like a bottle of cooking wine from Target's store-brand section. Well y'know what? The money's on the INSIDE of this bottle baby! Now stop looking at my screw-top!
I also want to do a blanco shootout soon with Siete Leguas, Don Julio, and another player to be named later.
So I look like a bottle of cooking wine from Target's store-brand section. Well y'know what? The money's on the INSIDE of this bottle baby! Now stop looking at my screw-top!
I also want to do a blanco shootout soon with Siete Leguas, Don Julio, and another player to be named later.
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Monday, July 25, 2011
LiLo Skull-Rocks with Kah!
U R SOOO KAAAHHH!
SLOW NEWS DAY FLASH!
Lindsay Lohan was caught skull-handed rockin' some Kah tequila blanco at a house-party with friends. This TMZ report says in the headline: "Lindsay + Worm +..." Not sure what the worm is referring to, unless TMZ mistakenly thinks that Tequila has a worm in the bottle.
Anyhoo...
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Tequilas For Twenty!
Hola! Señor! We are the Ultimo in affordable tequila!
One Andrew Jackson! A pair of Hamiltons! That's all it takes to get a bottle of decent 100% gave tequila any more. No reason to settle for a mixto, or worse, pay Patrón prices for a 750 of the good stuff. Tequila prices are coming down faster than Lindsay Lohan's pants. This is due to a combination of factors: New production tecniques, a worldwide glut, competition from too many brands, AND, apparently, TOO MUCH AGAVE*. There is a surplus of agave, dropping prices to new lows, and leading some farmers to plow under their blue-green pencas in favor of corn for making ethanol.
Rough for Mexican tequila producers; muy bueno for tequila consumers.
Here are some tasty $20 tequilas:
Espolón blanco and reposado
Camarena blanco and reposado
El Último Agave blanco and reposado
Milagro Silver
El Jímador
El Charro
Azúl
Cién Años 100% agave reposado
Agavales
D'los Altos blanco
Most of these we mihgt consider good mixers and not sippers, but for twenty bucks what's not to like?
There are a lot more out there. Have fun finding them!
*"There's lots of agave that cannot be consumed. Additionally, there are 130 million liters in inventory within the distilleries," explained González Figueroa
Saturday, June 18, 2011
I am a Highlander!
Desert-like Los Altos produces 'sweeter' tequila
The Red Soil and Blue Agaves of Legend...
Story by: David Agren
Source: Guadalajara Reporter - www.guadalajarareporter.com/
Tequila put its namesake town on the map, but Mexico's famed firewater is also proudly produced northeast of Guadalajara in Los Altos, where the area's red soil, elevation and climate give beverages from the region special characteristics.
"When you try a tequila from here and one from Tequila, Jalisco ... there's a big difference," said Miguel Ramirez, operations manager for Tequila Cazadores, which is based in Arandas, a city of 70,000 located 120 kilometers northeast of Guadalajara. Tequila owes many of its characteristics to the region the blue agave used to make it comes from. "One of the differences here is that the soil where the agave is grown is red," Ramirez explained. "It gives the agaves different nutrients."
Unlike the Tequila area, the temperature in the Los Altos region dips at night and some of its towns shiver through the winter. (The mercury in San Gaspar de los Reyes dropped to -14.5 degrees last January). Blue agave plants, which blanket the countryside, mature more slowly in Los Altos' cooler temperatures than in the Tequila area.
"The main difference between the (agave growing zones) is the climate," said Luis Alva Muñoz, a technical advisor for Jalisco's Rural Development Secretariat (Seder).
"The Los Altos region is more desertlike. It's also colder, which causes the plants to grow to smaller sizes."
According to Alva, agaves grown in the Tequila area take seven years to mature. In comparison, agaves in Los Altos grow for eight to 10 years before being harvested.
As a result, agaves from Los Altos have a higher sugar content, which impacts the final products' flavors. Bertha Becera, spokeswoman for the Guadalajara-based Consejo Regulador del Tequila (CRT) said beverages from the Tequila area tend to be "drier" while "tequilas from Los Altos are more aromatic with more sweet notes."
As for tequila from one zone being better than another, both Bercera and Alva said that depends on personal preferences.
Distillers in both regions use similar production techniques, but some outfits like Cazadores (hunters in Spanish) strive to produce a premium product. At its production plant, which is adorned with the head of 12-point buck deer, Cazadores produces 100-percent-agave tequilas. In the production process, the distiller naturally ferments its agave juice and ages its spirits in oak barrels made from new wood, instead of using old whisky barrels.
Much of Los Altos' tequila production centers on Arandas and Atotonilco, pueblos famous for milk, cheese and cajeta production, along with fiery spirits. Other famed brands from the region include Don Julio, Siete Leguas (named for Pancho Villa's horse) and Cabrito (little goat).
Production in Los Altos, however, lags behind that in the Tequila region, home to some of the industry's most legendary distilleries, including Jose Cuervo, Sauza and Casa Herradura.
Tequila El Charro, a proud old highland brand from Arandas, Los Altos
The Red Soil and Blue Agaves of Legend...
Story by: David Agren
Source: Guadalajara Reporter - www.guadalajarareporter.com/
Tequila put its namesake town on the map, but Mexico's famed firewater is also proudly produced northeast of Guadalajara in Los Altos, where the area's red soil, elevation and climate give beverages from the region special characteristics.
"When you try a tequila from here and one from Tequila, Jalisco ... there's a big difference," said Miguel Ramirez, operations manager for Tequila Cazadores, which is based in Arandas, a city of 70,000 located 120 kilometers northeast of Guadalajara. Tequila owes many of its characteristics to the region the blue agave used to make it comes from. "One of the differences here is that the soil where the agave is grown is red," Ramirez explained. "It gives the agaves different nutrients."
Unlike the Tequila area, the temperature in the Los Altos region dips at night and some of its towns shiver through the winter. (The mercury in San Gaspar de los Reyes dropped to -14.5 degrees last January). Blue agave plants, which blanket the countryside, mature more slowly in Los Altos' cooler temperatures than in the Tequila area.
"The main difference between the (agave growing zones) is the climate," said Luis Alva Muñoz, a technical advisor for Jalisco's Rural Development Secretariat (Seder).
"The Los Altos region is more desertlike. It's also colder, which causes the plants to grow to smaller sizes."
According to Alva, agaves grown in the Tequila area take seven years to mature. In comparison, agaves in Los Altos grow for eight to 10 years before being harvested.
As a result, agaves from Los Altos have a higher sugar content, which impacts the final products' flavors. Bertha Becera, spokeswoman for the Guadalajara-based Consejo Regulador del Tequila (CRT) said beverages from the Tequila area tend to be "drier" while "tequilas from Los Altos are more aromatic with more sweet notes."
As for tequila from one zone being better than another, both Bercera and Alva said that depends on personal preferences.
Distillers in both regions use similar production techniques, but some outfits like Cazadores (hunters in Spanish) strive to produce a premium product. At its production plant, which is adorned with the head of 12-point buck deer, Cazadores produces 100-percent-agave tequilas. In the production process, the distiller naturally ferments its agave juice and ages its spirits in oak barrels made from new wood, instead of using old whisky barrels.
Much of Los Altos' tequila production centers on Arandas and Atotonilco, pueblos famous for milk, cheese and cajeta production, along with fiery spirits. Other famed brands from the region include Don Julio, Siete Leguas (named for Pancho Villa's horse) and Cabrito (little goat).
Production in Los Altos, however, lags behind that in the Tequila region, home to some of the industry's most legendary distilleries, including Jose Cuervo, Sauza and Casa Herradura.
Tequila El Charro, a proud old highland brand from Arandas, Los Altos
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Day of The KAH!
Los Tres Muertos: Even the dead enjoy good tequila!
Apparently the word "kah" is Mayan for "Life", which is interesting because KAH tequila is presented in a bottle shaped like a skull. It speaks to a folkloric feature woven deeply in to the fabric of Mexican culture: Life celebrates death, and death celebrates life. Every year on Day of the Dead, family members visit the grave-sites of loved ones who have passed on, creating a fiesta atmosphere at the grave, often pouring tequila over the departed. They make sure to pour tequila in to their own living souls, to be sure. Tequila is the sangre de vida to Mexicans; the lifeblood of the people, just as as "uisce beatha" (whiskey baha) is to the Irish.
All of this cultura Mexicana is brought together in the new KAH tequila, whose four expressions (blanco, reposado, añejo and extra añejo) are presented in hand-made, hand painted day of the dead style skull bottles, with a different bottle for each age. The bottles are beautiful. Fortunately, the juice inside is pretty darn good, too. It has been well-reviewed, with the añejo garnering the most positive nods. I was planning to start in the middle of the lineup with the reposado, but after learning it was a blazing hot 55% alcohol brew, I decided to go with the añejo, largely based on the review of the notorious Tequila Whisperer, "Lippy". (The repo bottle has a red demon painted on its forehead -- and now I know why!). Añejo comes in the black skull - nice. I have to say that although it's not the most complex tequila I've had, KAH añejo is quite flavorful and enjoyable.
I will certainly collect all four bottles, eventually. In the meantime here are some other reviews and info on KAH.
SKOL! Er, I mean, SKULL!
Review by TasteTequila.com
Tequila Whisperer show on KAH
KAH on Facebook
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Camarena Reposado: A Sweet Surprise!
Sip it, mix it, any way you fix it!
So, the Camarena blanco was em, nice, kinda thin, inoffensive, and nothing to write home about. Sorta like "tequila light". For the price, it'll stand on my shelf as a mixer next to Azúl, Espolón, Milagro and other $20 bottles.
Last night I tried the Cama Reposado, and what a pleasant and unexpected surprise it was! It's a sweetheart with flavor! This is a very interesting tequila, with a big, undeniable presence of highland agave.
Camarena's color is a pale olive-oil with an almost green caste. The nose is floral, bright and citrus-y with alcohol, a hint of vanilla and a touch of wood (there's more oak in the aroma than the actual taste).
The taste starts with a nice silky entrance, followed by fast, round burst of agave, pear and caramel-apple. Then comes cider, oak, clove and...yes cinnamon. The finish is quick, leaving a lingering taste of nutmeg, cinnamon and burnt sugar. I sensed very little smoke; just a subtle undertone of oak and vanilla. There's hardly any heat; no burn whatsoever. The body hits and fills the front/middle of the tongue and palette. Cama repo is not heavy or oily, nor does it have much in the way of "back end".
This may the perfect juice to get tequila virgins in to 100% agave sippers. Whereas more seasoned aficionados may like earth and vegital tones, along with deeper complexity, those aspects of a particular flavor profie might turn off a newbie. Cama's juice might also turn them away from Patrón - we can only hope.
Camarena reposado absolutely kills the blanco. Wipes the floor with it. I attribute the big upgrade in flavor to this: A brief two-month resting in American oak barrels has gently coaxed-forth the flavor and soul of the famous los altos high-elevation agave. At the same time, it hasn't been in-barrel long enough to get very woody. (I'd love to taste a six-month expression!)
Where the blanco displays nothing really ugly, and gives you a light, spicy pop, it's the repo that delivers on the promise of the legendary highland spirit.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Family Legacy
Family Values!
First I must say it was a long cold winter of no tequila blogging for the Pale Rider. Got a new job December first and my nose has been firmly pressed against the grindstone for months. Plus, nothing really exciting came across my screen, tequila-wise. In fact, I had a real let down when I found Chinaco in a local store after years of it not being available around here. I bought a bottle and it was, well, awful. Undrinkable. I don't know if the juice had gone bad or they've changed it or what. I used to love Chinaco and this stuff I wouldn't use to make a margarita for Canadian tourists.
But I digress.
So last week, in my local store appeared the first new tequila offering they'e put on the shelf in ages: Familia Camarena "Silver"/Blanco and Reposado tequilas. Camarena comes in an incredibly handsome bottle with a just-as-attractive price. Again, we find a 100% agave offering in the $20 range, which seems to be a big trend in the last couple years. (I wonder if Patrón is getting nervous). I grabbed the blanco, because I always go for a blanco first. As you know I favor blancos, not to mention that if the blanco is good, it bodes well for the rest of the lineup. Plus, I thought, "Well, if it sucks, at least the bottle is pretty. It'll look good in my collection."
I tasted it chilled with a couple pieces of ice. The nose was just what I had hoped for - floral and fruity with a nice huff of agave and spice. Taste-wise, I found it pleasing on a number of levels. A couple of the reviews I've read accuse the blanco of not being a sipper, but I wouldn't totally agree. (If Patrón can be called a "sipper" then surely this offering is!) True, Camarena's mouth-feel is thin and light, but it has a flavorful body with agave, citrus, chili-pepper and earth. It has a peppery pop, a spicy spike! But there isn't a lot of bigness in the body, and there's no bottom end to speak of. It's not too hot or alcoholish, and on a smoothness scale I'd give it a 7.5 out of 10. The most disappointing aspect is the finish, which leaves an ashy residue on the tongue. As a blanco enthusiast, I have come to expect an acrid finish, even from highly-rated tequilas. I "get" that wood-aging irons out some of the speedbumps in the flavor-profile, especially mellowing a bitey finish. Generally I'm saying this juice is pretty thin and one-dimensional.
I later made a basic margarita - or should I say "Cama-rita"? - with Camarena Blanco, and found that it stands up really well in the cocktail, imparting a nice tequila flavor. I'd agree the Cama Blanco is better as a mixer than on its own. It reminds me a little of what I like about Partida blanco, and what I dislike about Don Julio Silver, the former having a nice balance of agave and earth, the latter having too much "dirt".
Most reviews I have come across prefer the Camarena reposado to the blanco, so I look forward to sampling the repo soon.
Soy Muy Guapo!
More interesting than the reviews is the history of Familia Camarena - apparently one of the first-families of tequila for six-generations, and tangentially related to the Cuervos. The Camarenas came to Mexico from Spain in the 1780s and was one of the founding families of the town of Arandas in the Jalisco highlands, where the world's finest blue agave is cultivated. The family owns thousands of acres of plantation-land in the highest elevations (over 7000 feet), producing millions of weber blue agave plants. For generations the Camarenas provided agave for other bottlers, eventually going in to the tequila business themselves in the 1930s under the name Casco Viejo. The Casco Viejo distillery makes the well-regarded Don Agustin as well. The actual Familia Camarena tequila brand label did not exist until 2008, when E and J Gallo partnered with Casco to create Familia Camarena for the US market.
Clearly there is a nice marketing boost going on around the country (see "Taco Truck" campaign pic, below), and as always I am heartened to see other tequilas finding popularity and eroding the ground beneath the tyrant Patrón, while also pulling people away from God-awful mixtos like Cuervo. And while Camarena Silver isn't what I'd call an ulta-premium tequila, it'll find a place on my shelf. At $20 for a 100% agave juice, what's not to like?
Coming to your town: The Camarena "Taco Truck" dishin' out tacos y tequila
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